Flying into Dali, the sun shone brightly as mountains rose like giants from the earth. Upon landing, taxi drivers—some of whom had returned to Dali after years working in the big eastern cities—queued outside the airport for departing passengers. We chose one, and after a twenty-minute drive arrived at our courtyard hotel in Dali Old City, complete with a koi pond, as if to ease us gently into the slower rhythm of the place.
Dali Old City
The vibes in Dali Old City were free spirited—lively but never rushed. The narrow cobblestone lanes weave past tiny bakeries with fresh bread, cozy cafés humming with conversation, steaming hot pot joints, and tea shops displaying jars of fragrant leaves. After an unmemorable airplane meal, we wasted no time and ducked into a local restaurant, where a rich, earthy mushroom hot pot more than made up for it.
While we dined beside an open wall facing the street, dusk slowly settled in and a vibrant constellation of lights came to life. Wandering the streets that night, Dali radiated a distinctly bohemian charm. Small shops and street vendors spilled onto the sidewalks, their tables crowded with handmade jewelry, textiles, paintings, and curiosities. One ceramics studio stood out in particular: the artist had sculpted an imaginative display of animals and fantastical creatures, each piece brimming with personality and playful detail.
While the Dali Old City night carried a certain mystique, daylight revealed a charm all its own. The morning sun warmed the stone streets as I sipped a freshly squeezed orange juice and watched the town ease into the day, while my wife happily browsed through one clothing shop after another.
One delightful surprise was a tucked-away alley café, easy to miss if you weren’t looking closely. Inside, a pair of ferrets dozed and played in a glass enclosure, drawing curious smiles from passersby. Along one wall stood a striking display of coffee beans—dozens of varieties sealed in clear tubes, neatly arranged like specimens in a grade-school science lab. It was quirky, inviting, and perfectly in step with Dali’s creative spirit.
Erhai Lake
Simple yet unforgettable, one of my favorite experiences was renting a bike and riding along the shores of Erhai Lake. The water glistened next to us as we followed the smooth, winding paths through a beautifully kept park. Prior to the park portion of the trail, we passed small shops and homes adorned with the Bai people’s traditional blue artwork, while the mountains rose in the background, giving the entire journey an otherworldly feel.
Three Pagodas
Walking from Dali’s Old City to the Three Pagodas offered a glimpse into everyday life beyond the main tourist streets. The route was lively and unpolished in the best way—lined with small hardware shops, auto and bike repair stalls, and storefronts that looked a little weathered but brimmed with character. Just outside the Three Pagodas, we found a Bai community where family-run shops and restaurants occupy the ground floors of their homes. It felt welcoming and authentic, and we gladly stopped for lunch before entering the park.
Near the entrance, a row of souvenir vendors greets visitors, but once past them, the atmosphere shifts. Manicured garden paths wind gently upward, guiding you toward the pagodas through peaceful greenery. Standing before the monuments, it’s impossible not to feel awe at their scale and the centuries of craftsmanship they represent. Behind the pagodas, a temple building leads to an elevated viewpoint, with cultural displays along the way—calligraphy demonstrations, handpan music, and beautifully crafted ceramics.
We lingered for a while, taking in the serene setting at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains, grateful for the chance to experience such a historic and inspiring place.
It’s easy to get swept up in a place while traveling—especially when your time there is limited—but Dali left a lasting impression on me. Despite the broader poverty in Yunnan province, Dali felt like a place with a genuinely good quality of life.
The weather is beautiful, the traditional architecture and narrow lanes are endlessly captivating, and the parks lining Erhai Lake are the kind of spaces you find yourself wanting to return to every single day. We visited many remarkable places on this trip, but Dali stands out at the top of the list as somewhere I hope to experience again one day.
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