October in San Francisco. We had been watching the sunset from Corona Heights overlook when the fog began its slow advance over the surrounding hills, spilling in from both sides with a patience that felt almost deliberate. For a few moments, the city remained suspended in golden light, caught between the warmth of the setting sun and the grey gathering beyond […]

Chengdu was the final new city on our three-week journey from east to central China. Although our stay was brief, we hoped to make the most of it by basing ourselves in Yulin, a subdistrict in southern Chengdu known for its authentic atmosphere: low-rise apartment blocks, tree-lined streets, teahouses, small restaurants, and bustling local markets. […]

As a kid, I remember watching a Top Gear episode set in what they called “the largest city you’ve never heard of.” That city was Chongqing. The episode stuck with me—not just because the challenges were hilarious, but because the setting itself felt almost unreal. Towering highways, dense clusters of high-rises, and mist-shrouded mountains blended […]

Rain. Rain. Rain. The weather ruined our plans for visiting Zhangjiajie — the rain and fog were so dense that we wouldn’t have been able to see anything. Instead, we pivoted and extended our one-night stay in Phoenix City. I found Phoenix City to be a fascinating place. It’s quite rural, so there aren’t many […]

Before visiting Hangzhou, I had often heard about the beauty of its tea fields and West Lake. There is a well-known Chinese proverb—“Above there is heaven; below there is Suzhou and Hangzhou” (上有天堂，下有苏杭)—that captures just how highly these cities are regarded for their natural charm and cultural richness. After already taking in the beauty of […]

I had never heard of Nanxun before planning this trip to China. But when I discovered that there were numerous ancient water towns between Suzhou and Hangzhou—two of our main destinations—I became determined to fit one into our itinerary. Of all the water towns, we ultimately chose Nanxun because it was said to be less […]

Our time in Suzhou felt like two completely different trips. There was the ancient city, with its canals, classical gardens, and traditional architecture, and then there was the modern city, filled with glass towers, luxury malls, and sprawling business districts. That contrast might sound like China as a whole, but Suzhou takes it to another […]

When I think of Shanghai, I think of character. Beneath the glitz and glamour are layers of intention and history that tell far more interesting stories. You could start with the Maglev rail line from the airport. It feels outdated now — almost like a retro vision of the future. The train no longer runs […]

Boston has an unmistakable energy—a city constantly in motion, shaped by generations of students, innovators, and dreamers. That vitality is hardly surprising given the concentration of world-renowned universities, but Boston’s appeal extends far beyond its campuses. What makes the city truly captivating, at least to me, is its patchwork of distinct neighborhoods, each with its […]

Chicago has character—gritty, deliberate, and unmistakably hard-working. Its palette leans blue and gray, steel and glass softened by the vast, steady presence of the lake. Unlike most American cities, it moves with a comprehensive transit system: elevated lines threading through downtown, their rumbling trains echoing along the corridors of streets, adding both texture and motion […]

We spent a few whirlwind days in Suibin, and the adventure began almost immediately with a visit to the local police station. Since I was staying with family instead of a hotel, registration was required. From the officers’ reactions, it was clear that a Western visitor in Suibin was something of a novelty. I was […]

Heilongjiang, way up in northeastern China, isn’t exactly what you’d call a wealthy province. Its GDP sits in the lower third of the country—eight or nine times smaller than the richest provinces—and most of its economy revolves around farming, with grain, rice, soybeans, and corn taking the spotlight. Outside of Harbin, the Heilongjiang province capital, […]